Evaluation: 19/20
Date: March 9, 2014
This is one of the best restaurants in Spain. They handle becasse (woodcock) probably better than everybody else.
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Amuses. We had excellent brown carrots with cream, bonbon of kumquat with foie gras, bonbon with xerello, jamon of lamb, and olives.
First course: Sotabosc de les Becades (Under the forest). This is a dish of ceps, black truffles and snails. Basically the dish has what the bird eats, with umami flavors. 17/20
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Second becasse course: Mar I muntanya garota I becada amb tofona: (Becasse royale with hazelnut pieces). This royale is worthy of Ducasse.
Sea urchin royale. A very light non-eggy custard is served together with a successful example of terre et mer. 19/20
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Third becasse course: Rosa de Becada amb fulla de ginebro. This is a slightly charred piece of becasse breast served with dried herbs. 18/20
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Fourth becasse course: Ravioli de peus de porc (Ravioli of porc feet). The wrap in this dish is not dough but crepinette. It is filled by porc feet, ricotta and walnut. There is sliced turnip on top, and a subtle anchovy butter adds more flavor. It was delicious. 19/20
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Fifth becasse course: Champagne shower: Becasse consommé. This dish is served in a small Bollinger champagne bottle. The presentation is a bit farfetched, but the consommé is outstanding. It is thickened by the foie of woodcock and contains the juice of ceps and drops of Bollinger champagne. They called this dish “champagne shower”. 19.5/20
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Sixth becasse course: Patata al caliu (Potato and truffle). The potato is cooked in the fireplace and topped by a farm egg, jamon slices and shaved melanosporum, with truffle foam. The dish reminded me of the Arzak potato-truffle dish of the late ‘90s when Arzak was a great restaurant. 19/20
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Seventh becasse course: Arros de Becada 7 dies (Risotto). This is another masterpiece. Each grain of bomba rice is flavorful. It contains finely chopped pieces from the thigh of becada, scallions, and shaved truffles. 20/20
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Eighth becasse course: Pits de becada en salmis (Roasted breast with salmis). The liver of becasse is spread on toast. It is cooked rare, and is intense and minerally, but it is also juicy and melts in the mouth. Super. 20/20
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Ninth becasse course: Cuixes faisendades 9 dies. The thigh is in a thicker sauce that also contains garlic. It is like a kebab, with concentrated flavors. They use a longer, nine day faisandage for this. 18/20
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Liebre a la roial (Lievre a la royale). This is also great. It has a classic sauce. It is a salmis with bitter chocolate, paired with brioche and sliced beet with gremolata. 19/20
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1st Dessert: La neu. This is an excellent granita of smoked milk ice cream with citrus.
2nd Dessert: Sotabosc d tofones. This is a very good dark chocolate mousse with red fruit sorbet and shiso leaves.
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We had Volcan en erupcio: roques de xocolata, avellanos ensucrades, merengues de salvia, with excellent coffee.
DRINKS:
1. 2002 TURO D’EN MOTA RECAREDO CAVA from Penedes.
This is the best cava I have tasted. It has depth and a leesy nose, and also has fine boules. 92/100
2. 2009 OCTONIA from Monstant.
This is 100% Grenache. It is a successful example of a concentrated and very fruity (red) wine. It is not overextracted, and the oak is well integrated. It is a good match with the first few courses. 90/100
3. 2010 ESPECTACLE from Monsant.
We were quite impressed with this one, which is 100% Grenache from old vines. It is quite earthy, minerally and balanced, with a quite spicy nose with mace, cardamon, black peppercorns, and pomegranate. The fruit is not upfront. It has more black currant than red fruits. It has a good structure and has a long but not oaky finish. It is not overextracted and has elegance and power. It is a nice match with the last courses. 95/100