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ITALIAN WINES: May-August 2014

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We drank the following wines.

1997 Luigi Pira, Barolo “Marenca”  92/100

1997 San Guisto a Rentennano, Percarlo  94+/100

2008 Azienda Agricola Palari di Salvatore Graci.  Palari Faro  88/100

2010 Az. Agricola Greco Quota 1000  96+/100

2010 Tenuta di Castellano Bianco Pomice  90/100

2010 Tenuta Terra Nera “Le Vigne Niche”  90/100

2011 I Custodi dell’etna Ante  92/100

2013 Grillo Cristo di Campobello  89/100

2013 Tasca d’Almerita Malvasia  88/100

 

RED:

1997 San Guisto a Rentennano, Percarlo

Slightly dusty, cloves, ripe berry, coffee, tar aroma. Palette is tight, intense and persistent. Ripe black fruit, good acidity, long finish. Many years ahead. The oak is well integrated. %100 Sangiovese. 14.5% alcohol.  94+/100

 

1997 Luigi Pira, Barolo “Marenca”.

Quite classical with good acidity and structure. Not jammy despite the hot year. Restrained style. Dried plum nuances developed in the finish. Opened up in the glass. Should be decanted a couple of hours ahead.  Tannins are more square/hard than round but they are not green. Old style Barolo which requires a bit more complexity to be great but it will be interesting to see how it develops. 14.5%  alcohol. 92/100

 

2010 Az. Agricola Greco Quota 1000.

Nerello Mascalese.  They are in Contrada about 1000m. altitude.  Intoxicating nose with soft spices like candied clove, mace, cinnamon.   Silky texture. Smooth and long. Kiss of oak. Explosion of red fruits.  Good structure. Elegant. Long finish with notes of fennel, thyme.  Like a Bourgogne. Outstanding wine, best I have tried from Sicily.  96+/100

 

2008 Azienda Agricola Palari di Salvatore Graci. Palari Faro.

Nerello Mascalese, nerello cappuccino and nocera coopage.   A  bit oaky and too  much kirsch dominated.  Smooty, silky.  Fruit is ripe, not jammy.  An international style wine, late harvest, microoxidation, so on… It is pleasurable but does not possess the complexity of Etna reds.  88/100

 

WHITE:

2011 I Custodi dell’etna Ante

A blend of Caricante, Minella and Grecanico from Etna.  Smokey, floral nose.  Lean.  Reminded me of Gruner Veltiner.  Medium intensity, good tenacity, saline-citrus finish.  92/100

 

2010 Tenuta di Castellano Bianco Pomice

Malvasia from Lipari and Carricante.   Bitter almonds, grilled pineapple, grapefruit and saline nose.  Good viscosity, fruit is ripe but nice acidity.  It developed apple and roasted pecans on the palette.  Medium long finish  displays mineral notes (proximity to sea?).  A bit too heavy in body to accompany crudo.  Should be great with espardanyes.  90/100

 

2013 Grillo Cristo di Campobello

Nice with light summer fare.  Light citrus, grassy aroma.  Balanced.  Pleasant. I like the finish which is reminiscent of chewing the seed of summer fruits. 12.5% alcohol. 89/100

 

2013 Tasca d’Almerita Malvasia

Lean and not fruity. Whiff of citrus, lime, pipen apple. You taste summer fruit skin  in the slightly saline finish. A non commercial, perfectly fine summer wine from a commercial winery.  Goes well with anchovy pasta. 12% alcohol. 88/100

 

2010 Tenuta Terra Nera “Le Vigne Niche”.

Carricante. Aroma is not expressive but one detects mineral smokiness.   Round and rich on the palette, clearly long maceration.  Ripe grapefruit and kumquats.  Bitter orange developed.  The finish is quite long.  The oak has not been fully integrated and it masks the minerality.  One needs to decant a couple hours in advance.  Did not impress me as much as 2006, 2010 Pietramarina but still a serious white from Etna. 90/100

 


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