Evaluation: 5 stars
This is a a very nice restaurant in Brittany, in the scenic town of Pont Aven. We have dined there twice with consistent results. Monsieur Guilloux is an excellent seafood chef who works with very fresh products. His langoustines, grilled whole in the fireplace, are outstanding.
The amuses were a parmesan macaroon, foie gras with spiced cake, and marinated raw sturgeon on a cracker.
ENTREES
1. Le millefeuille de foie gras, vinaigrette au pain d’epices
Crumbled pain d’epices works well with foie gras. It is served with agrumes, quince confit, and aragula. This is an excellent and very fresh foie gras preparation. It is accompanied by toasted brioche.
2. Le carpaccio de bar de ligne aux herbes.
The carpaccio is extremely fresh, and served with a dill, chive, and passion fruit puree.
MAIN COURSES
1. Les grosses langoustines grillees, sauce a l’estragon.
This is the plat de resistance. Langoustines are firm, juicy, and sweet.
2. Le blanc de barbue, croute au chorizo, pommes de terre a la ciboulette.
Barbue, like meaty turbot, is one of our favorite fish. It is served with a proper beurre blanc prepared with homemade churned butter and served on top of hand mashed potato puree with a good dose of butter. The thick cut of barbue, cut from the bone, is very very good. The chorizo crust added flavor without detracting from the pristine fish.
3. Le carre d’agneau de Quercy (label rouge), roti.
A very good rack of lamb was served with jus flavored by a touch of garlic and tarragon. It is accompanied by paimpol beans and green tomato chutney. The rack was browned a la plancha and then roasted at a low temperature. It was served medium rare. This is a classic.
Before the dessert we ordered cheese: Le Plateau de Fromages Affinees de Madame Baratte a Riec Sau Belon, which included Landres, Comte, Camembert, Reblochon, Charolais, Pont L’Eveque, Chevre. They have a very good cheese cart.
DESSERT: La Tarte fine aux pommes chaudes, glace a la vanille
This is a perfect rendition of a timeless French classic.
Add to all of this the fact that the homemade breads and butter are excellent, and the wine list is fairly priced. This is a no miss restaurant when you are in southern Bretagne. It is impossible to understand as to why Michelin removed their macaroon.
WINES
1. 2005 Luneau Papin, “Puere Solis”
This is a muscadet made according to my taste. It has a crushed stoney minerality aroma with mandarine notes. It is round and nervy on the palette with no oak. It coats the palette and has nice acidity. The finish is medium long with crushed sea shells and stony minerals. The texture is creamy. It clearly comes from old vines. It should age well too. 94/100
2. 2007 Antoine Arena, “Grotte di Sole”
This is Nielluccio from Corsica (a clone of Sangiovese). I like the herbal, thyme scented, slightly rustic nose with red fruit. On the palette one detects bitter black cherry, juicy, and non-smooth tannins. It is like biting into pit fruit, sweet and tart at the same time. The finish is vegetal but not astringent, and this went well with the roasted lamb chop with herbs. 90/100